The seahorse tank: Specific gravity – 1.020 to 1.024 Ammonia – 0 Nitrite – 0 Nitrate – <20 ppm Optimum temperature is dependent on whether the seahorse species is tropical, subtropical or temperate. Generally, beginners should start with tropical species as heating a tank is much less expensive than cooling one, and it is easier to maintain a stable temperature in a tropical tank. Try to keep to the lower end of the temperature ranges, and let the temperature fluctuate up towards the higher values of the temperature range. Taller tanks are preferred. Seahorses need height (2.5 to 3 times the uncurled length of the animals) in their tanks to court and mate. As a minimum, the internal height of the tank, excluding the substrate, should be at least 2 times the uncurled length of the seahorse you are keeping.
Before you buy a seahorse, be sure you understand the basic principles of how to
keep seahorses in the home aquarium. The best overall source for this knowledge is to get books. Keeping marine fish of any type requires knowledge of basic marine aquarium keeping and water chemistry. There are many books and other sources of information available. If you prepare adequately and set up an appropriate sized, fully cycled, and stable tank, you will greatly improve your chances of success. Seahorses need “hitching posts”—something to cling to while they are resting. Not having these resting places is stressful for a seahorse. Seahorses should be introduced into a mature, cycled aquarium. Various filtration methods and tank set-ups can result in a healthy, stable aquarium. A seahorse tank must have gentle to moderate currents, with 3–5 times tank volume turned over per hour. A seahorse tank needs to be void of intense currents and requires lower flow areas where a seahorse can retreat and rest Water parameters should be stable before animals are added:
pH – 8.0 to 8.3
We recommend you purchase captive-bred seahorse species that have been trained to eat frozen foods. This makes feeding a simple task. Offer the frozen food, pre-thawed and rinsed, once or twice daily. Frozen foods can be supplemented with fish vitamins, carotenoids and HUFAs (highly unsaturated fatty acids, such as Selcon or Zoecon). An exception to this recommendation is if you use Piscine Energetics brand frozen mysis, which does not require HUFA supplementation.
Know your species:
Any information claiming that temperate or subtropical species can be kept at tropical temperatures is false and will most likely cause the death of these species within a few weeks. Do not buy from breeders or suppliers that claim otherwise. These seahorses may appear to do well, but are susceptible to disease due to the stress of being kept at temperatures beyond their natural tolerances. Of the medium and large seahorses, we recommend captive-bred H. erectus as the hardiest "beginner" seahorse species. Dwarf seahorses (H. zosterae) are one of the hardierspecies, even as wild-caught, but will require live food daily and have other special requirements.
Choosing safe tank mates:
Seahorses are not strong swimmers and are not competitive feeders. They have few defences against aggression. Many keepers recommend seahorse only tanks. This is a partial list of compatible "clean up crew" animals most likely to be safe with small to large seahorses.
· Fan worms including Feather Dusters (Phylum Annelida)
· Astrea Snail (Lithopoma [Astraea] spp.), Turbo Snail (Turbo spp.), NassariusSnail (Nassarius vibex), Trochus Snail (Trochus niloticus), Cerith Snail (FamilyCerithiidae), Nerite Snail (Nerita spp)
· Scarlet reef hermits (Paguristes cadenati)*
· Peppermint Shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni)*
· Grass Shrimp (Palaemonetes vulgaris)*
*Shrimp and most hermit crabs are not considered safe around seahorse fry or H. Zosterae, (dwarf seahorse).
Selecting healthy seahorses:
If you are buying from your local fish store, observe the seahorses carefully before you purchase. Make sure they have a good reputation and live guarantee. Confirm the seahorses are captive-bred. It is important to observe/ask:
· Is the seahorse eating?
· What food is it eating and how often is it being fed?
· Is the body well rounded with no signs of abdominal concavity?
Do not buy a seahorse that is not eating. You should be able to observe captivebred seahorses eating frozen mysis shrimp, krill or plankton. If a captive-bred seahorse is not eating frozen food, it may not truly be captive-bred, or it may not be healthy. The dwarf seahorse, H .zosterae, is an exception, whether captivebred or wild-caught; they require live food, generally enriched brine shrimp nauplii.
Do not buy a seahorse if you see:
Signs of skin sloughing or discoloration, inflammation, odd swimming behaviour, not using a hold-fast, lying on substrate or hitching upside down, minimal eye movement, protruding eyes, blisters, inflamed gill slits, eroded snout, body or tail lesions or continuous heavy respiration. If you observe any of the above signs, play it safe and pass on the purchase. Do not try to "rescue" an obviously malnourished or sick seahorse.